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The island · South

The best sand, and the busiest coast

Bai Khem and Bai Sao are the two best swimming beaches on the island. They are also at the end of the most heavily developed road on it. Both of those things are true at once.

A long curve of fine white sand with shallow turquoise water at Bai Sao

At a glance

WhereThe southeastern and southern tip of the island
The two beaches that matterBai Khem and Bai Sao, both on the east side
From Duong Dong40 to 50 minutes
From the airport25 to 40 minutes
SeasonNovember to May, when the east coast is in the lee
NightsTwo to four if you want a beach holiday with day trips attached

What this place actually is

The southeast corner of Phu Quoc has the finest sand on the island. Bai Khem and Bai Sao are both east-facing bays of pale, almost powder sand with shallow water that stays shallow a long way out. In the northeast monsoon, roughly November to April, they sit in the lee and are flat calm while the west coast has chop on it. That combination is genuinely hard to find and it is why they are worth the drive.

The southern end of the island is also where almost all of the recent construction has happened. Sunset Town at the southern tip is a purpose-built development, An Thoi is a working harbour town with the cable car terminus attached, and the road south from the airport passes several kilometres of ongoing building. If your image of Phu Quoc is an undeveloped island, the south is where that image collides with the present.

The honest way to use the south is to accept the trade. You are going for two of the best beaches in Vietnam and a sunset over open water, and you are going to drive past a lot of concrete to get to them. That is a good trade for a day. It is a worse trade for a week, which is why we suggest most people base themselves further north.

The beaches, compared

BeachSandWaterCrowdsVerdict
Bai KhemVery fine, paleShallow, sheltered, usually calmModerate, resort-controlled in partThe better swim of the two
Bai SaoVery fine, whiteShallow, calm Nov – AprBusy from 10:00, quiet beforeThe longer beach, the famous one
Bai Truong, southern endCoarser, goldenOpen, west-facingThinFor sunsets, not for the sand
An Thoi town beachWorking harbourNot for swimmingn/aGo for the boats, not the beach
Sunset Town waterfrontBuilt, not naturalNot a swimming beachBusy at sunsetThe sunset, the bridge, the cable car

Go to Bai Sao before 09:30 or after 16:00 if you can. Between those hours it takes the output of every hotel transfer on the island. Bai Khem holds up better through the day because part of it sits behind a resort and the through traffic is lower.

When to come

MonthsThe east coastVerdict
November – FebruaryFlat, calm, clear, in the lee of the windThe best window
March – AprilHot and still, water like glassExcellent, busy around Tet
MayTurning, still usually goodGood, quieter
June – AugustThe wind swings and the east coast gets weed and chopThe west coast is better
SeptemberWettest month, seaweed on the sandSkip
OctoberImproving, very few peopleGood value

This is the exact opposite of the west coast, which is calm in the southwest monsoon and choppy in the northeast one. On Phu Quoc there is always a swimmable coast; it is just not always the same one. When to go has the full month-by-month picture.

Getting there and what it costs

FromDistanceTimeTaxi or Grab
Airport to Bai Khem12 km20 minutesVND 180,000 – 250,000
Airport to Bai Sao15 km25 minutesVND 200,000 – 280,000
Duong Dong to Bai Sao28 km45 minutesVND 350,000 – 450,000
Duong Dong to An Thoi30 km45 minutesVND 350,000 – 450,000
Bai Sao to An Thoi10 km20 minutesVND 120,000 – 180,000
ItemPriceNotes
Sunbed and umbrella at Bai SaoVND 50,000 – 150,000Or free if you eat at the place behind it
Lunch on the sandVND 200,000 – 500,000 for twoSeafood by weight — check the scales
Beach entrance where chargedVND 0 – 50,000Some access points charge, most do not
Cable car to Hon Thom, returnAround USD 12 – 22A separate half day
Kayak or paddleboard hireVND 100,000 – 250,000 per hourNegotiable outside high season

Pictures

The long white curve of Bai Sao early in the morning
Shallow clear water and fine sand at Bai Khem
Fishing boats and the harbour front at An Thoi
Sunset over open water from the southern tip of the island
The cable car towers seen from the southern coast

Tours that use the south

Every boat to the An Thoi islands leaves from the harbour here, including our four islands day trip and the diving day. All four of our multi-day tours spend their first day on these beaches, finishing with the sunset at the southern tip, because it is the correct way to start a trip here — you see the best sand on day one and everything after that is a bonus.

When to skip it

  • Between June and September, when the east coast catches the wind, the water goes murky and seaweed lands on Bai Sao. Use the west coast instead.
  • Midday in high season at Bai Sao, when it is genuinely crowded and the parking is a problem.
  • If you are staying in the north. It is a 90-minute drive each way and there are perfectly good beaches 20 minutes from you.
  • If new construction spoils a place for you. Parts of the drive south are an active building site and will be for some years.
Common questions

Questions travellers ask most

Which is better, Bai Sao or Bai Khem?

Bai Khem for the swim and the calm, Bai Sao for the length of the beach and the photographs. If you only have one afternoon, do Bai Khem at 15:00 and Bai Sao at 17:00 as the light drops — they are twenty minutes apart and doing both is easy.

Is Bai Sao free to enter?

The beach itself is public. Some access points are through restaurants or resorts that charge a small fee or expect you to buy something, and one or two charge for parking. Nothing on the level that should change your plans; carry small notes.

Is Sunset Town worth visiting?

For the sunset, yes, once. It is a purpose-built development at the southern tip with a bridge out over the water, and the sunset there is over open sea with nothing in the way. It is also busy, commercial and entirely manufactured, and nobody has ever told us they wanted a second evening there.

Can we swim at An Thoi?

Not usefully. It is a working harbour with the fishing fleet, the ferry berths and the boat traffic for every island trip on the island. Go for the boats and the market; drive ten minutes to Bai Khem to swim.

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